Caramel frequently shows up in my recipes because it's one of my favourite flavours. Although it's not difficult to caramelize sugar, if you haven't done it before, the process can be intimidating, and it might take a couple of tries before you're comfortable taking it to the right degree of darkness: a deep amber liquid, on the edge of burnt, but still sweet in flavour.
When sugar is heated, it melts into liquid. As the sugar continues to cook, it begins to take on a bit of colour, or caramelize. Because cookware and heat sources don't always distribute heat evenly, you need to stand guard during the entire process, encouraging the sugar to cook at an even rate.
The two things to watch out for when making caramel are recrystallization — what happens when sugar crystals join together in a lumpy mass — and burning the sugar. You can avoid recrystallization by making sure that the sugar is free of impurities and that the pan used to cook the caramel is clean. If you're making a wet caramel—one that begins with sugar and water (more on that in a bit) — limiting the amount that the mixture is stirred during cooking helps guard against recrystallization.
To avoid burning the caramel, it's just a matter of being vigilant. The melted sugar should be cooked until it's a deep amber colour — it's done when it starts to smoke and begins to foam just a little bit. At this point, it should be removed from the heat immediately to stop the sugar from darkening any further. Usually, a liquid is then quickly added, which also helps halt the cooking.
After making caramel, to clean the pan and dissolve any stuck-on bits, either soak it in warm water or fill the pan with water, bring it to a boil, and continue boiling until the caramel dissolves.
Wet and dry caramel
A wet caramel is made by heating sugar and water together in the pan. Since wet caramel doesn't get too hard when cooled, I use it for sauces and to line ramekins for flan. A dry caramel is simply sugar heated without any liquid and can handle being stirred gently.
Wet caramel
When making caramel, especially wet caramel, your main nemesis will be the sugar's natural tendency to recrystallize. The sugar crystals have jagged edges and, even after liquefying, want to regroup into a solid mass. Stirring a wet caramel encourages these crystals to hook up—and cause clumping.
One common technique for preventing recrystallization is to cook the sugar in a covered pot until the sugar is completely melted; the trapped condensation washes away crystals clinging to the side of the pot. Another is to use a clean brush dipped in water to wash down the sides, dissolving any crystals that may have formed. I don't recommend the latter technique as I've lost a few bristles in the caramel — and found them later, when dessert was served. You can also add an interfering agent — a tiny amount of cream of tartar or lemon juice — near the beginning of cooking to help inhibit recrystallization.
To make a wet caramel, begin by sprinkling the sugar in an even layer in a heavy-bottomed frying pan or saucepan. Pour water over the sugar until is it completely and evenly moistened—you don't want any dry spots. Cook the sugar and water over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. At this point, add a pinch of cream of tartar or a few drops of lemon juice, if indicated or desired. Continue cooking, watching carefully as the sugar begins to brown. If it starts to recrystallize, swirl the pan and continue to cook. Usually, the lumps will melt as the caramel continues to cook.
When the caramel has darkened to the point of being almost burnt — when it's dark amber in colour, smoking, and beginning to gently foam — take it off the heat and stop the cooking by pouring in the liquid called for in the recipe. Then stir or whisk the caramel over low heat until it's smooth. If the lumps persist, you can always strain them out.
Dry caramel
In some ways, making dry caramel is easier than making wet caramel, but it can be difficult to control the rate of caramelization because it happens much more quickly.
To make dry caramel, sprinkle an even layer of sugar in a heavy-bottomed frying pan or saucepan. As you heat the sugar, the edges and bottom will melt first and start browning. With a heatproof utensil, gently push the liquefied sugar toward the centre, which encourages the still-solid sugar to begin melting.
Once the sugar begins to colour, watch very closely because dry caramel cooks rapidly, so don't take your eyes off it until it's the proper colour. If the recipe calls for a liquid, add it now. Then stir or whisk the caramel over low heat until smooth. If there are any small bits of sugar remaining, you can strain the caramel to remove them.
Tips for caramel success
Only refined granulated sugar can be successfully caramelized; brown sugar and powdered sugar contain impurities that inhibit caramelization. Do not use raw cane sugar.
Have everything ready before you begin. Read the recipe thoroughly before you star so you're not scrambling to figure out how much liquid to add if the recipe calls for it.
Use a heavy-bottomed pan and a heatproof utensil. Be sure both are spotless because even a tiny food particle can cause your caramel to recrystallize.
Always choose a pot or pan large enough to allow for plenty of expansion, especially if you'll be adding cream. When liquid is added to hot caramelized sugar, the mixture sputters and bubbles up vigorously. You may wish to invert a mesh sieve over the pan and pour the liquid through it. This will disperse the liquid and partially shield you from splatters and steam.
If you're a beginner, use the lowest heat possible. Slowing down the process makes it easier to manage.
Partially fill the sink or a large wide vessel such as a roasting pan, with ice water so that if your caramel threatens to scorch, you can immediately set the pan bottom in the ice water which will stop the cooking quickly.
Stay focused on the sugar during cooking. Just a few seconds can mean the difference between perfect and ruined. Hovering is recommended.
You can protect your hands by wearing long oven mitts. If you want to be extra cautious, keep a sizeable container of ice water handy. If you accidentally spill hot caramel on your hand, immediately plunge it into the ice water to stop the burn.
Don't be discouraged if you burn your caramel of it becomes a mess of dry crystals. Even very experienced pastry chefs overcook caramel.
